Marc Jacobs brings big finale to NY Fashion Week

Marc Jacobs drew a beautiful and audacious line Thursday under a New York Fashion Week that stood out for its optimism and bright yellows and oranges.As he has in the past, Jacobs chose the Armory in southern Manhattan rather than the Fashion Week headquarters at the Lincoln Center for his Spring-Summer 2012 show.

The theatrical choreography saw about 50 unworldly outfits mixing materials and turning conventions upside down.Cellophane for raincoats, fringed coats, fake crocodile for straight yellow or dark red skirts, sparkly turbans and loafers -- Jacobs was as innovative as ever, and that was before he unveiled the strange, transparent cowboy boots.

Nylon, cellophane, organza, silicone and silk socks to go with golden high heels were just some of the materials he used, setting up a show to delight the celebrity fan club, including Sofia Coppola and actress Elle Fanning.

Earlier Thursday, Ralph Lauren won lengthy standing ovations for his 1920s-inspired collection, recalling the "Great Gatsby" days of vintage jade silk chiffon dresses and high-waisted, side-button trousers.

Cloche hats, pinstriped blazers and flapper-style beaded gowns, including with an ostrich-feather headscarf, completed the look.

For all the fantasy, this was a Fashion Week that could not exclude the outside world.

It opened as New York marked the 10th anniversary of the September 11, 2001 attacks and Marc Jacobs asked to hold his preview until the end because of delays in preparations caused by Hurricane Irene.

There was also a whiff of scandal over the Guli collection from the daughter of Uzbekistan's authoritarian president Islam Karimov.

After human rights groups complained about her participation, the fashion week took the unusual measure of canceling the show.

Instead, the Guli collection, mostly flowing silk dresses, was unveiled in the chic Cipriani restaurant.

Overall this week, the colors were resolutely optimistic and sharp and a new tech-friendly approach allowed fashionistas to follow many collections live on their computers and phones, without having invitations to the Lincoln Center.

A newly pregnant Beyonce, Michael Douglas and Whoopie Goldberg were among the A-listers in the front rows.

London Fashion Week starts Friday and runs through September 21. (AFP)

NY fashion week: a bit of 9/11 worry, lots of fun

NEW YORK — Fashionistas in New York for the spring 2012 shows may be jittery about the possible terror threat in the city, but the designers who unveiled collections displayed nothing but confident joy.
Organisers of fashion week in the Big Apple said Friday they were taking the threat linked to the 10th anniversary of the 9/11 attacks seriously, and were in constant contact with city authorities and law enforcement.

Security checks were stepped up at fashion central in Manhattan's Lincoln Center, as they have been across the city -- those without the proper badges were turned away. Several police vehicles were parked nearby.
"Normally I am not worried, but I could see people on the subway this morning -- everybody was kind of looking to the sides. I was extra careful," said 25-year-old Canadian photo editor Alex Margary, in town for the shows.

On the catwalks, those fears quickly melted away, thanks to the exuberance of the collections for next spring and summer.Jason Wu, who skyrocketed to fashion stardom when he was selected to design First Lady Michelle Obama's inaugural ball gown, impressed with lots of black and white prints, infused with bursts of bright yellows and pinks.

Wu deliberately mixed up silhouettes and materials, to "break out from the usual look".
Rebecca Taylor offered silk dresses with plenty of flounces, belts knotted at the waist, and paired them with strappy red or gold sandals -- creating an airy, ultra-feminine look.

And Peter Som dared to be bold with dresses and trousers in huge multi-colored floral prints.
Sportswear king Tommy Hilfiger broke away from the usual venue, staging his men's spring show in the early evening on the High Line, a section of former elevated railway converted into a park not far from the Hudson River.

Impeccably coiffed models strutted in polo shirts and camouflage-patterned cashmere sweaters, wide-striped trousers and yellow leather trench coats -- Hilfiger's latest interpretation of the preppy, sporty student.
The suits were more classic -- in sky blue or with pinstripes, and neatly tailored.
Fashion week continues on Saturday with more than 25 shows on tap from designers including Prabal Gurung, Monique Lhuillier and Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who makes his debut as new artistic director for Lacoste.

The shows in the Big Apple will run through September 15.
New York is the first stop in a month-long style marathon that will take the fashion world's elite to London, Milan and Paris. Credit : AFP